Tag Archives: skirts

Hitched Hems

Dresses are my favorite things to wear. They’re easy to mix and match, and never out of place. Styles to choose from are endless, and materials used vary from cotton to velvet to leather. Personally, I like dresses that are both versatile and classic. One of my favorite designs in our collection is The Princess and Keyhole Dress. It features puff-sleeves, a keyhole neck, and hitched hems.

princess-seamed dress, one

The Princess and Keyhole Dress is best made with non-elastic materials such as cotton. The dress has princess seams, so it’s shaped at the bodice, and a wide hem. Puff-sleeves make it comfy to wear, but the key element is the hem.

The dress is made with channels on the hem’s seams. With ribbons slid into the channels, the hem can be modified in both length and shape. The dress can be worn long, pulled up at the front, or gathered into a short version. I like to use the ribbons to shorten the hem at the front to show off a colorful peticoat.

The shape of the dress finds its origin in the Victorian era, when hems were wide, ruffled, and often gathered. I’ve used the element of hitched hems in an earlier design as well.

princess-seamed dress, four

The Victorian Skirt is made with two layers. The botton layer features a wide ruffle, and the upper layer can be hitched up with ribbons. The Victorian Skirt is made with a very simple pattern, so it’s available as a drafting tutorial only. This allows everyone to create a skirt with their own, unique measurements.
Hitched hems are an easy way to create a versatile dress. The Victorian Skirt can be worn with both layers smooth and long, pulled up evenly, gathered at the front, or even arranged into a bustle-like shape. I like to wear mine gathered evenly, and I’ve even made a version with ribbon channels on both layers of the skirt.

black satin skirt, Victorian style

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our Hitched Hems -sewing patterns.

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Garter Petticoat

I like to wear shorts skirts during the winter. Long hems drag along in the cold snow, the snow melts, and soaks my shoes. With short skirts and dresses, my feet stay dry. But the issue of cold legs remains. Adding long socks or leg warmers to the mix is an uncomfortable fix: they both have a tendency of sliding down. That’s why I came up with the idea to add garters to an underskirt. The solution worked like a charm, and I turned it into a Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern.

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 1

In order to make the garter petticoat as comfortable as possible, I made it with sturdy cotton jersey. It’s warm, it’s durable, and the fabric is easy to work with. You can find some in any fabric store in loads of colours, and the cost usually stays quite low. You can naturally make this with any elastic material, but I recommend using a heavier jersey. The garters need something to hold on to, and thick cotton grants them just that.

The hem of the petticoat has an angular shape. If you prefer, go ahead and cut it straight along the lowest point of the angles. Personally, I feel that the angular shape brings to mind vintage lingerie. Along with garters and cute socks, the vintage-vibe is even stronger. The garter petticoat is my absolute favourite. I’ve made two, and I wear them all them time! Paired with tights, over-knees, and a flowing skirt or two, I no longer freeze to death when venturing outside.

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 2

The model piece for the Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern is hemmed with contrast-coloured underwear elastic. You can use any kind of elastic lace to hem the petticoat with. I recommend a narrow lace, but a longer version can work, too. The contrast-colour works as an eye-catcher, so if you’d like a not-so-obvious version, match the lace to the colour of your fabric.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Garter Skirt Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 3

Bondage-Inspired Mermaid Skirt

Satin ribbon and D-rings make the eye-catching details on our bondage-inspired Mermaid Skirt Sewing Pattern. Made with elastic gabardine, this style is both flattering and comfortable to wear.

Mermaid Skirt

Our bondage-inspired Mermaid Skirt features a lacing at the back of the knees, embellished pockets, and shaped waist band. With an option to decorate the skirt with D-rings, the style is versatile and cute in the dark sense of the word. The long, widening hem is trumpet-shaped. Though the pattern doesn’t state it, the style can be made into a knee-length pencil skirt as well. With a figure-hugging shape, this skirt is designed to flatter an hourglass figure.

The Mermaid Skirt has sewn on pockets. The pockets are naturally entirely optional, but they add an interesting detail to the bondage-flavoured skirt. With a lacing on them, the pockets repeat the detail at the back of the knees, tying the design together. With D-rings, the skirt has a unique, Gothic-inspired look.

Bondage-inspired mermaid skirt pocket detail

For the model skirt, I used pinstripe-patterned gabardine. Aligning stripes was quite challenging: with curved seams, this skirt demands a lot from patterned fabrics. Luckily, gabardines come in a variety of delicious colours. Feel free to pick any of your favourites. Make certain to only use elastic fabrics for this style! With a tight shape, this skirt isn’t nice to wear if it doesn’t give. Using stretchy fabrics guarantees a comfy wear, and makes the skirt look better on you.

Though the pattern comes with a selection of details, feel free to add more to the skirt. With bondage-flavoured garments, there can never be too many embellishments. Try a sewn-on lacing to the thigh, or add chains and belts to the hem. With things like this, only your imaginations sets limits.

I hope you’ll enjoy our bondage-inspired Mermaid Skirt Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

 Mermaid Skirt with bondage-detailsa

Unisex Wrap Skirt

Long, A-lined skirts work for both him and her. Our unisex Wrap Skirt Sewing Pattern is a perfect example of the styles that can go both ways. And that’s not all: sewn fully lined, this skirt can be reversed for a different look.

black cotton unisex wrap skirt

This sewing pattern comes in sizes 32 – 42. The tutorial included comes with a drafting tutorial just in case you need a larger or smaller size. When making a skirt for him, make sure to double-check the length!

Our wrap skirt is best made with non-elastic fabrics, such as cotton. For an everyday look, cotton lined with anything slippery works best. For the model skirt, I chose black cotton and a beige lining silk in order to add a bit of colour to the dark style. Feel free to use patterned fabrics and delisciously colourful lining materials for a fun, unique look!

When making a reversible skirt, make sure to pick fabrics that have a smooth finish. I recommend two layers of satin or taffeta for a reversible skirt. Materials with a rough surface, such as cotton, tend to stick to tights. To make the skirt as comfortable as possible, steer clear of anything clingy when creating a reversible look!

Choosing different materials alters the appearance of this style drastically. Cotton and twill make a stiffer skirt, satin and taffeta fall softer. For a light summer skirt, you can make the skirt without lining, and use viscose jersey. You can even use leather for this style, be it real or faux.

Adding embellishments, such as pockets and D-ring details, adds attitude to this basic wrap skirt. Use your imagination, and play with the pattern to make the finished garment totally yours. Fashion is all about having fun, and this pattern offers the change for just that.

I hope you’ll enjoy our unisex Wrap Skirt Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

black cotton wrap skirt with beige lining

PuffBall Skirt

The puffball skirt (also known as the bubble skirt) was first introduced in the 80’s. It enjoyed a brief moment in the sun, and faded into the background of fashion. Now considered decadently retro, the puffball skirt still bubbles under.

Being enchanted by the dark eighties, I made my version of the PuffBall Skirt. My look on the delightful garment has three variations to choose from.

The basic PuffBall is made with two layers and a simple waistband. It has a zipper which can be placed in the side seam or in the center back seam. The hem is gathered to shape with the help of buttons. When gathering. every sewist can create folds to suite their personal taste. I like symmetrical shapes, but asymmetric lines can work just as well.

The PuffBall skirt is a nightmare to iron, so pick a fabric that does not wrinkle!

Red PuffBall Skirt with a gathered hem

The white version is made with a slightly longer hem. The hem is gathered in a more subtle way, and the waist has decorative flaps sewn in under the waist band. Both styles are fully lined, and can be made in various lengths. Pick a mini to go shopping in, and a floor-length bubble skirt for formal parties. For extra puffiness, sew a layer of tulle in between the lining and outer layer.

White PuffBall Skirt with flaps at the waist

The beige PuffBall Skirt has a high waistband and suspenders that help support the weight of the folds. The hem is gathered with buttons, and the high waistband is closed with a matching row of buttons. This version bears a steampunk-feel.

These styles work well made with non-elastic materials, but elastic fabrics can work in them, too. Try a thick cotton jersey for a comfy everyday pouf, and taffeta for a more festive look. Pair the skirts with simple tops to keep attention at them hem.

Beige PuffBall Skirt with a high waist and suspenders

I hope you’ll enjoy the PuffBall Skirt sewing pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Product: High-Waist Velvet Skirt Drafting Tutorial

Drafting patterns sounds daunting and intimidating, but it can be easy and fun. Heather Wielding Designs carries a small, growing selection of drafting tutorials for simple garments.
One of my favourites is the High-Waist Velvet Skirt.
My skirt is made with cruched velvet, but nearly all kinds of elastic fabrics work with this style. Light cotton and viscose jerseys make a comfortable garment for everyday wear, and lace paired with elastic satin works wonders for parties. The suspenders are entirely optional, and the waist band can be sewn lower for a different look.
The hi-lo -hem takes a lot of fabric, and gives the skirt a luxurious feel.
The hem falls long in the back, and while the front hem is short, this style still bears all the best qualities of a full length skirt. While this particular style demands for stretchy fabrics, this skirt can be made with non-elastics: draft the skirt, add a zipper into the side seam, and sew a fitted waist band. This way, you can use taffeta or tulle for a decadent look.
This style if one of my favourites, not only because it’s comfortable to wear and easy to mix and match. I love the versatility of the style, the way it can be made in so many different ways. I hope you’ll have fun with it!
The reason why I chose to showcase two products in a row is that I’m planning a minor update on my official site. I’m hoping it’ll prove rewarding to both you and me. Stay tuned!
Until next Wednesday.
Love,
Heather

Let’s Make… Sweatshirt to Skirt

Once upon a time, a friend brought me all sorts of discarded clothes. Among them was a hooded sweatshirt.
I don’t wear sweatshirts, full stop.
But the fabric was kinda nice, a thick, white jersey with a skull print.
So I asked the hoodie whether it might like to be something else.
It contemplated on becoming a shrug, and as I picked up my scissors, it shrieked.
“No! Wait! Skirt!”
Trying the hoodie on to see if I could fit my wide ass derriere inside it was a bit impossible, so I decided to risk it.
I started by cutting off the hood and the sleeves leaving a straight edge.
Then I cut off the rib. White is a difficult colour, and white rib was just too much.
And then I got to try it on.
And it fit!
I shaped the side seams to a curvier shape. I also shaped the waist a bit, making it lower in the front. This way, the waist will fit better, and the skirt won’t look like the front of it is taller.
 One of the sleeves got to be a waistband. I cut a strip from it, sewed short edges together, and folded it.
I pinned it to the right side of the waist with raw edges together, and serged the seam.
I got a tidy finish with minimal effort.
 I hemmed the skirt using a zigzag-stitch. It gives more than a straight stitch, and looks a bit nicer, too. And that was all it took. Two hours, including planning, photos, and sewing. I bet you can do it in one!
The hoodie got a new life, and I got a white skirt with skulls on it.
Until next Wednesday!
Love,
Heather

Victorian Skirts

My favourite skirts are big, long, and tiered. They’re versatile, adjustable, and can be made with upcycled materials. My love for the Victorian era inspired these hitched up skirts.
victorianskirt-1victorianskirt2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made both skirts from upcycled fabric. I used satin duvet covers I found from flea markets. The fabric I got was fresh, undamaged, and plentiful. One can salvage up to four meters of 150 cm wide fabric from a single satin duvet cover, and that’s a lot.

Both skirts have two layers, which have ribbon channels than can be used to adjust the hem. I like the shape draped hems create, and enjoy the option to hitch the skirts up differently each time I wear them.

The process of making a skirt like this is relatively easy. Drafting a pattern is the trying part. I’ve made a drafting tutorial in order to help with the process. It’s available for 2,25€, and also offers a fully illustrated tutorial on sewing this lovely tiered skirt.