Tag Archives: corset

Reversible Corset

A while back, I mentioned a project I was working on. Finishing it took a bit longer than expected, but now I get to show you my Reversible Corset. It’s based on both The DeathRock Bustier, and The Reversible Waist Corset. I used the bustier pattern, and techniques from the waist corset.

I like to make clothes that can be paired with everything in my closet, and worn in many ways. This corset is a perfect example of both. It goes with all of my skirts and most of my dresses, and can actually be worn inside-out. It’s made with satin finished cotton and jacquard-print poly-blend. It has a zipper at the front, and lacing on the back which makes it easy to put on.

Since the corset is designed to be fully reversible, it doesn’t have a modesty panel. The lacing leaves my back partially exposed, so this style is best worn over a top or a dress. The DeathRock Bustier Pattern comes complete with a modesty flap, but working one into this mod of the original pattern was just too much for my spatial awareness.

This corset, along with The Reversible Waist Corset, is boned with spiral steel. I use it for most my corsets. It’s light and flexible, and makes corsets comfy to wear. I don’t go for tight-lacing, so light boning works well.

Getting the bone channels to look nice on both sides is surprisingly easy. All one needs is a bit of patience and accuracy.

I chose to create this corset with two black materials. Though the fabrics are close to each other in colour, they do bear a subtle difference in pattern. With two black options rolled into one, I get the most wear out of this corset.

For the photos, I paired the corset with a Victorian-inspired satin skirt made with two layers. The top layer of the skirt can be hitched up, which gives the style the versatility I love so much. The Victorian Skirt is available as a drafting tutorial.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my Reversible Corset!

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

DeathRock Bustier Sewing Pattern

Corset patterns are abundant in the internet. A bit of googling will reveal an endless source of corset sewing patterns from Victorian to modern. Despite the fact that corset patterns are pretty much everywhere, I couldn’t find one that would suite me. I wanted a light overbust with little detail, a modesty panel, and a shape that would allow it to close almost entirely. Even after turning the internet upside-down I came up empty.

So I had to make the pattern myself.

The DeathRock Bustier is one of my favorite corset sewing patterns in our growing collection. It’s easy to make, comfy to wear, and it can be paired with almost anything. I like to wear mine with long skirts, but the DeathRock Bustier works wonders with short hems as well.

I’m currently in the process of making a new one with steel boning and a front zipper.

As I was cutting the corset, I couldn’t decide between two pretty fabrics. To give both of them a chance to shine, I chose to make the corset reversible. I used the exact same techniques as with the Reversible Waist Corset. With both sides pretty and tidy, the garment can actually be flipped inside out even in the middle of a night out.

Adding front closure to a light corset is really quite easy. Cut the front in two pieces instead of on fold leaving a bit of allowance, pop in a zipper, and sew bone channels on both sides. The solution makes any bustier easier to put on, and adds an extra detail.

My old DeathRock Bustier is pretty well worn. It’s boned with acrylic, and bears the marks of a lot of wear. It’s not beyond the point of salvation, and I’m thinking about changing it’s bones to spiral steel. The operation shouldn’t be too difficult, it just involves a lot of unpicking…

I hope you’ll enjoy the DeathRock Bustier Sewing Pattern, and have fun with modding it to your own taste!

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Heather lying on forestfloor

PS. If you haven’t already, do take advantage of our special offers reserved only for VIPs. Join our mailing list to gain access to discounted prices on select products!

Loki Corset

Once upon a time three years ago, I got a bit carried away right before Halloween. I got a grand idea to go as Loki, and made a corset out of black fake leather and green cotton. I got sidetracked half-way through, and the corset was forgotten. I found my Loki Corset again a month or so ago, and decided to feature it in the I Made This! -section today.

I actually meant to do this yesterday, but I had the misfortune of coming down with a flu. I was literally too sick form a comprehensible sentence, but today I’m feeling much better. Not very pretty, though.

The Loki Corset is loosely based on the DeathRock Bustier Sewing Pattern. I used the pattern as a basic shape, and modified it with a heavy hand. I added a lot of details, steel boning, and front closure.

The criss-cross button closure is a thing I like to use when making light corsets that aren’t meant for tight-lacing. It has a unique look, and makes the garment comfy to wear. I most often use spiral steel boning which is flexible and forgiving, so this style of closure only works when you don’t want a very tight corset.

All the details of my Loki Corset are sewn on. I embellished each pair of pieces separately without a plan. I used a lot of piping for this too add as much green as I could. I wanted to avoid vertical lines, though, and decided to use black twill for bone channels. This solution gives more space to the diagonal embellishments.

The back of the corset has a very basic lacing. I like to use long satin ribbons with this one. They add a feminine detail to the style. The corset is complete with a modesty panel, naturally with my initials sewn into it.

I meant to wear my Loki Corset out on Friday, but a late dinner made me change my mind. This little mistake paired with the flu I got means you’ll have to settle for a headless shot of the corset being worn…

Though this piece hasn’t gotten much actual wear, I love it to bits. It’s comfy, unique, and pretty. I hope you enjoyed reading about it!

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Reversible Waist Corset

Once upon a time, I had two cool fabrics that both wanted to be a corset. One was a black cotton-blend with a soft satin finish, and the other a skull-print cotton scarf. After a while of pondering, I decided to take full advantage of both fabrics. The process turned into our Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern, which was published on Craftsy last week.

Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern - skulls on the outside

This reverible corset features a front zipper, and a laced-up back. The zipper makes it easy to put on, which mean you can flip it in the middle of a night out if you so choose. The lacing gives the garment a bit of wiggle-room, making it easy to modify the size a bit. Made with light-weight fabrics, this corset is designed for decorational purposes only. Using thicker materials and flat steel boning makes it possible, though, to wear this style as a tighter laced corset.

Lacing

As this style is reversible, it comes without a modesty panel. Sewing one into a garment meant to be worn inside-out on occation is virtually impossible. This means our reversible corset is best worn with dresses. This way, the garment seen through the lacing is seamless and smooth. When pairing this style with skirts and tops, be sure to make certain the back looks pretty!

SkullCorset

This reversible waist corset sewing pattern comes with a zipper at the front. Attaching it in a tidy way is surprisingly easy. This style does have a bit of hand-stitching involved, though. The binding is best sewn by hand so that both sides of the garment remain pleasing to the eye.

The bone channels are sewn into the seams. They’re visible on one side only, and nearly hidden on the other side. This technique guarantees a tidy finish with quick, easy steps which are fully explained in our illustrated sewing tutorial that you will receive with the pattern.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wedneday.

Love,

Heather

Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern - black satin on the inside

Embroidered Corselet

Corsets can sometimes be a pain to wear. Still, they add detail and bring a lovely silhouette to any outfit. To ensure a comfortable fit, I turned elastic fabric into an Embroidered Corselet.

embroidered corselet with contrasting bone channels

Elastic fabrics come with various degrees of stretch, and in all finishes. For a corselet, I recommend picking a fabric that keeps its shape and only gives enough to ensure comfortable wear. Too much elastane in a corset-like clothing can ruin the shape of the garment. A lightly stretchy fabric makes a corselet a joy to wear, and offers a bit of support as well.

This embroidered corselet features contrast coloured bone channels, and light embroidery on the sides. Creating this style requires only a sewing machine, since most of them have a selection of embroidery stitches. For the model corselet, I picked a floral stitch. Feel free to use any kind of embroidery, from flowers to basic zigzag. Even a straight stitch can create stunning results: just make certain stitching doesn’t eat at the elasticity of the fabric.

The shape of this corselet is quite standard. What separates it from the rest isn’t only embroidery and contrast colours. The closure also bears a unique element. Since the corselet is made with elastic fabric, it can be sewn into a snug fit. Therefore, it doesn’t have lacing, but button closure in the front. This makes the corselet easy to get in and out of. The buttons also serve as an interesting detail.

The embroidered corselet is supported with rigilene tape. As the garment is light and not meant to be laced up tight, rigilene serves its purpose of keeping the corselet sturdy. If you prefer, feel free to use metal spiral boning. You can also easily mod the pattern to sport a back lacing as well.

Corsetry is a fascinating are of fashion, and corselets are only a tiny section of it. I hope to find the time to create patterns for steel boned corselets as well. In the mean time, I hope you’ll enjoy the Embroidered Corselet sewing pattern.

Until next Wednesday!

Love,

Heather

embroidered corselet with button-down front

DeathRock Bustier

I love wearing corsets as much as the next girl, but sometimes, a steel-boned corset gets a little painful. A lighter bustier is less constricting, but bears the beautiful lines of corsets. The DeathRock Bustier is one of my favourites. It is available as a sewing pattern, and comes in three sizes. deathrock bustier, threeThe DeathRock Bustier features a crossboned front which is designed to enhance the bust. The crossboning is an optional extra. It adds an eyecatching detail to the front. For added drama, try using contrast coloured bone channels!

The bustier also sports loops on two seams. Use these to hang chains. Removable embellishments make the garment more versatile, and make it easy to mix and match. A classic style works for both clubbing and formal parties. Fabric and decorations make all the difference.

Crossboned front is designed to enhance the bustThe bustier is fully lined. In the tutorial included with the pattern, you’ll be guided through the process of cutting, lining, and boning the bustier. The model bustier is boned with rigilene tape which is sewn into the garment. This style works also with steel boning.

A contrast coloured lining is completely hidden when the bustier is worn. For a more subtle garment, use lining that matches the outer layer.

A full lining adds comfort and lengthens the age of a garmentThe DeathRock Bustier has a built-in modesty flap. It is sewn into the garment, and can be turned aside when worn. It hides bare skin, and protects from the cold metal of the eyelets. The bustier can also be made without a modesty flap.

DeathRock Bustier comes with a built-in modesty flapFor a photo shoot, I paired the bustier with a two-layer peasant skirt. The wide hems consist of cotton and tulle. The skirts are delisciously decadent, but not very practical when hiking through a forest.

DeathRockBustier_intheforestI hope you’ll enjoy the DeathRock Bustier -sewing pattern!
Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Heather lying on forestfloor

Corset-Mod

Once upon a time, I had a basic satin corset. I made this a while back, wore it once, and found it boring. It sat in my closet for a long time, ashamed of itself, until I dug it out for a remake.
I tore out the binding and the bone channels. The corset had steel bones and a purple lining, but no front closure. Putting it on was slow (I usually take the laces off, put the corset on backwards, lace up, turn, and tighten) and the front felt a bit… well, flimsy. I liked the shape and construction, although the whole thing was a little on the loose side.

I had steel boning and black, stretchy satin stashed, along with a tube-ful of large buttons.

Since the corset was a little bit too big, I cut the front open, planning to do a simple button-up closure. As I placed buttons on one side of the corset to see what they’d look like, I decided they were too big to sit comfortably on just one side. So I tried a different approach.

Asymmetric buttoning is a bit of a pain to create: one needs to measure and re-measure carefully, but I managed to get the loops done with just two takes.

Starting the remake process, I thought I’d give the corset black bone channels. Rummaging through my stash, I ran into the remains of the purple lining, and thought what the hey, might as well give the thing a bit of colour.

At first, I thought I’d hide the channels in the front, but they looked too nice to conceal.
I ended up tucking in the satin, and leaving the purple channels out. I liked the contrast, and did the rest of the channels the same way.
Originally, the corset didn’t have a modesty flap. I undid a seam in the back, and added a flap. I’m still undecided on the whole concept of modesty flap, but trying things out never hurt. Much.
While sewing on the bone channels, I added stripes on both sides, and four little loops on one. The stripes bear no real purpose, but the loops are good for hanging chains from. Just in case one feels the need to get caught on every chair and door handle. Who knows, there might be a handsome Goth just waiting to bail a girl out.
I bound the corset with the black, elastic satin I originally planned to use for the bone channels. Although there’s a slight difference in shade, it works better than the purple fabric would have: an elastic binding gives much more than bias tape ever can, and feels better when worn.
The remake did wonders to a discarded corset, and I’m super-happy with the results. A bit of effort turned this from “so going into the bin” to my new favourite.

Until next time!
Love,
Heather