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Hitched Hems

Dresses are my favorite things to wear. They’re easy to mix and match, and never out of place. Styles to choose from are endless, and materials used vary from cotton to velvet to leather. Personally, I like dresses that are both versatile and classic. One of my favorite designs in our collection is The Princess and Keyhole Dress. It features puff-sleeves, a keyhole neck, and hitched hems.

princess-seamed dress, one

The Princess and Keyhole Dress is best made with non-elastic materials such as cotton. The dress has princess seams, so it’s shaped at the bodice, and a wide hem. Puff-sleeves make it comfy to wear, but the key element is the hem.

The dress is made with channels on the hem’s seams. With ribbons slid into the channels, the hem can be modified in both length and shape. The dress can be worn long, pulled up at the front, or gathered into a short version. I like to use the ribbons to shorten the hem at the front to show off a colorful peticoat.

The shape of the dress finds its origin in the Victorian era, when hems were wide, ruffled, and often gathered. I’ve used the element of hitched hems in an earlier design as well.

princess-seamed dress, four

The Victorian Skirt is made with two layers. The botton layer features a wide ruffle, and the upper layer can be hitched up with ribbons. The Victorian Skirt is made with a very simple pattern, so it’s available as a drafting tutorial only. This allows everyone to create a skirt with their own, unique measurements.
Hitched hems are an easy way to create a versatile dress. The Victorian Skirt can be worn with both layers smooth and long, pulled up evenly, gathered at the front, or even arranged into a bustle-like shape. I like to wear mine gathered evenly, and I’ve even made a version with ribbon channels on both layers of the skirt.

black satin skirt, Victorian style

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our Hitched Hems -sewing patterns.

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Hooded Dress

Super light jerseys can be too thin to be worn on their own. I solved the problem by creating a two-layer dress. Styled with a large hood, our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern is designed to make everyday wonderful.

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern comes with a large hood

Our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern has a wide hem, a fitted bodice, and reverse puff sleeves. Made with two layers of fabric, it can be made monochrome, or with contrasting colors. Using a single tone makes the dress modest and easy to pair with different kinds of accessories. Choosing two colors turns it up a notch, bringing a bit of flare to the simple design.

This style works best when made with light cotton or viscose jerseys, but poly-blends can work as well. Try using a thicker fabric for the shell, and topping it with a see-through chiffon or even lace. Keep in mind, though, that this dress needs to be sewn with elastic fabrics in order to make it as comfy as possible!

Our Hooded Dress has a wide hem, and made with light fabrics, it can have a tendency of flying. It’s a smart idea to pair the dress with a tight petticoat to avoid showing too much. Our Garter Petticoat works wonders with this style, and helps keep overknee-socks up during the winter.

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern allows you to create a two-layer dress

For this dress, I wanted to take advantage of my favorite sleeve shape. The reverse puff sleeve enjoyed popularity in the sixties, and pops up every now and again. In my opinion, it’s one of the most flattering sleeves. It’s easy to pair with 3/4 cardigans, and works wonderfully with shawls of all shapes. In a feminine dress, it emphasizes the female form.

Our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern was originally designed to be hooded, but to give it more versatility, we’ve added an alternate neckline to the style so the dress can be made hoodless as well. Don’t forget, with two layers of fabric, you can play with the shape of the hem as much as you like!

I hope you’ll enjoy our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern.

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern also has a hoodless option

Sleeveless Wrap Dress

Wrap dresses are comfortable, versatile, and fun to mix and match. Our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern is designed with a loose fit and knee-length hem.

sleeveless wrap dress sewing pattern, two

Wrap dresses can be made with many kinds of materials. Our version is designed for elastic materials. Thicker jerseys work wonderfully for this style. The model dress is made with cotton jersey, but viscose jerseys or even poly-blends work with our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern. The dress is made with a low-cut, lace-trimmed neckline and long belts. Try using contrast colours for the trim and belts for a funky look, or choose a printed fabric to bring a splash of colour to any workday. This style is a comfy choice for casual office environment, but it can work for family get-togethers or dates as well.

Made with nicer fabric, such as velvet or elastic satin, our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern can go from casual to fancy. Try using two layers of fabric: pick an elastic satin, and top it with elastic lace. Match the belts and the lace-trim to the satin, or bind the neckline with bias tape. This way, you can make the dress look super-stunning for non-formal parties.

This sleeveless style is perfect for summer days. During the warm days of summer, this dress is cool and breezy. Thanks to the versatility of the style, it can work during the winter as well. Pop a long sleeved top and a jersey skirt under it, and you have an extra layer of warmth. You can even wear this style over another dress like a long, sleeveless blazer. If you’re feeling adventurous, try adding cap sleeves or even full sleeves to the dress. Though sleeve options aren’t included in the pattern, feel free to use your skills! And if you already purchased our Pretty Basic Jersey Top Pattern, you have a sleeve that fits the dress.

We hope you’ll enjoy our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

sleeveless wrapdress, four

Lace-Trimmed Wrap-Cut Dress

Jersey dresses, both in long and short styles, are comfortable, easy to pair, and fit for many occasions. Ultra-comfy jersey dresses are perfect for shopping, day-time dates, and even the office. Our Lace-Trimmed Wrap Cut Dress Sewing Pattern is designed to be smoking hot. With a low-cut neckline and flattering, fitted empire waist, it is sexy in a relaxed way.

lace-trimmed wrap-cut dress sewing pattern, image one

This style is best made with light jerseys. Cotton and viscose jersey work wonderfully for this dress, but lycra and poly-blends also nice choices. The model dress is made all in black for a classic dark look. Don’t hesitate to pick any colour, though! This wrap-cut dress will look stunning in shades of red, and absolutely cute in pastel tones. Patterned fabrics will flatter this style as well. With a simple cut, the design won’t obscure printed materials.

The Wrap-Cut Dress Sewing Pattern is available in sizes 32-38. This doesn’t mean larger ladies shouldn’t go for the same style. Included in the pattern, you’ll find a drafting tutorial on how to use a basic top pattern to create the pattern for this dress in your exact size. Be sure to use a top pattern that fits like a glove for a perfect fit!

This style features a revealing neckline, a fitted empire waist, and long, loose sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are bound with elastic lace to add to the delicacy of the design. Accessorizing this style is easy and fun. Add necklaces for a sensual look and a waist corset to emphasize the feminine shape. Try adding a light, fitted top beneath the dress for coverage, and a long underskirt for extra warmth. You can also wear a cardigan, be it loose or short and snug, over the dress on cold days. Whicever way you choose, this dress is up for it. Simple and sweet, it will be a wardrobe go-to.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Lace Trimmed Wrap-Cut Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

wrap-cut jdress sewing pattern, image two

Too Cute Velvet Dress

Crushed velvet in two tones turned into a super-cute dress designed especially for petite beauties. Our Too Cute Velvet Dress Sewing Pattern bears elements that allows pocket-sized ladies rock their youthful appearance.

too cute velvet dress sewing pattern velvet dress, image two

The model dress is made with cruched velvet in two tones. A contrast-coloured, lined yoke with a bit of ruching is designed to enhance the bust. Together with puff sleeves, these elements add volume to the upper body. The fitted bodice draws attention to a slender figure, and the full, ruffled hem creates an illusion of innocence. Combined, these elements make the cutest dress.

This style works best when made with elastic fabrics. Non-elastics are far too constricting for a dress with no zipper, so be sure to pick a stretchy material. Elastic velvets and satins work wonders when creating a dress to wear to parties. For everyday wear, pick a cotton or viscose jersey. Both are comfortable and easy to work with.

This dress pairs beautifully with a waist corset if you wish to create a darker look. Try adding a tulle petticoat if you’d like a hem with more volume, or sewing tulle beneath the hem’s ruffle. Wide hems draw from the delicate world of Lolita-inspired fashion, and bring a touch of fairytale into our everyday lives.

The model dress is made with two colours. Feel free to use only one tone, or pick a patterned fabric. If you’re feeling adventurous, choose a light jersey, and add a layer of elastic lace in contrast colour over it. This choice would create a dress fit for cocktail parties. You could also lenghten the hem, and sew it without a ruffle. With a long, straight hem and made with glamorous material, you could even rock this style as a prom dress. With a bit of imagination, the options are endless.

We hope you’ll enjoy our Too Cute Velvet Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

too cute velvet dress sewing pattern velvet dress, image one

SteamPunk Dress

Sometimes, fabrics are very clear about what they want to be. They tell me their desire, and I do my best to make come true. A few months ago, a lightly elastic pinstripe twill happened upon me at a flea market, and announced its will to become a steampunk-inspired pinafore. The fabric’s vision quickly turned into a reality, and the fruit of our joined vision is now available as the SteamPunk Dress Sewing Pattern.

SteamPunk Dress side view 2

The steampunk dress sewing pattern features a large collar which floats on the shoulder-line. The front of the dress is open, so it requires a blouse underneath! This steampunk-inspired pinafore is best worn with collared blouses paired with ties, or shirts with ruffled fronts.

SteamPunk Dress Sewing Pattern - collar detail

This dress is un-lined, so that it can be paired with blouses and petticoats. Designed to be worn over a layer of clothing, I wanted it to be as light as possible.

The fabrics that work best for this style are slightly elastic. Since the hem is designed to be gathered to length, the dress requires a thicker fabric. Jerseys can work for this style, but I recommend choosing a twill or even a high-quality taffeta for this style. Since the steampunk dress sewing pattern is designed with an open front, it is comfortable to wear even if made with non-elastic materials.

SteamPunk Dress Sewing Pattern - hem detal

The hem of this dress is cut with excessive length, and gathered to shape with the help of buttons. The pick ups create an interesting shape to the hem, but the dress can be made with a less dramatic straight hem, or even modded to knee-length. This dress loves variations, and works with a number of hem options. Paired with a tulle petticoat or even a hoop skirt, the hem of this dress will gain volume and an even more interesting shape.

I hope you’ll enjoy our SteamPunk Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

SteamPunk Dress front view

BombShell Dress

Bodycon dresses have been quite popular in the last seasons. Figure-hugging garments have a label of looking cheap, but with the right materials and subtle details, even tight-fitting dresses can look classy. Length, long sleeves, and a semi-revealing neckline add sophistication to a glove-like garment, and velvet brings to it a touch of luxury.

My version of the bodycon dress draws inspiration from the wiggle-dresses of the 50s, adding a Gothic twist to vintage vibes. Made with elastic velvet, my BombShell Dress is a joy to wear, and guaranteed to turn heads.

velvet bombshell dress, one

The BombShell Dress turned into a sewing pattern in sizes 32-38. It is designed for petite beauties with an hourglass figure. The details enhance the figure, and add a bit of drama to a simple design. A ruched sweetheart neckline creates the illusion of a fuller bust, and curved lines draw attention to the natural shape of a female form.

Pointed sleeves, despite the obvious lack of practicality, are every Gothic girls dream. With sewn-in loops the sleeves will stay put without riding. Made with three-way elastic fabric, the sleeves will feel comfortable when worn.

Working with elastic fabrics can be challenging. I recommend using your serger for the job: with its help, you’ll be able to sew seams that give along with the fabric. A serger will also allow you to create rolled hems for the dress.

BombShellDress-Detail2

The hem of the BombShell Dress is a bit longer in the back, and is gathered to shape with straps and buttons. This three-piece detail is entirely optional, and is designed to add even more curve to the back of the dress without compromising comfort.

 

BombShellDress-Detail1

The BombShell Dress is surprisingly easy to create. It is the perfect choice for a last minute outfit, and with the right accessories, it can even double as a Halloween costume. Add a pair of ears, and channel a black cat.

I hope you’ll enjoy the BombShell Dress sewing pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather
velvet bombshell dress, three

SkaterDress

The skater dress is a classic. It’s versatile, comfortable, and super-cute. My version of the classic comes in three variations, all in the same pattern.

The basic SkaterDress is made with a separate top and hem. The style has a seam on the waist and a low-cut neckline. The pattern comes with an elbow-length sleeve: for a full sleeve, lengthen the pattern piece. The hem can also be modified to a different length. This style works as a mini-dress as well as with a floor-length hem.

The basic style can be paired with many kinds of accessories. Try adding a full petticoat to give the hem volume. Hide the seam with a belt or a waist corset, or add a cardigan over it. The simple dress gives a lot of room for imagination, so don’t hesitate to spice it up!

The basic SkaterDress

The second style is a Gothic version of the classic. I made the model dress with elastic velvet. It has bell sleeves, a large, lace-trimmed hood, and a lacing in the front of the bodice. The hem is super-short so be sure to check measurements before cutting!

These two styles are both made with elastic materials, and elements of them can be combined and switched. Try making the Gothic version with a simple full sleeve, or adding a hood to the basic style. Mixing and matching changes the look of the SkaterDress to suite any sewists whim.

Gothic SkaterDress

The last style is my personal favourite. It’s made taking advantage of upcycled materials. For it, you’ll need a fitted blouse, and a hem’s worth of fabric. The model dress has a three-layer hem: tulle, and two kinds of fabric. The top layer is cut into an asymetric shape to give the voluminous hem a bit more drama.

This style can be paired with corsets and ties which give the dress an androgynous vibe. Try accessorizing it with scarves and narrow belts for a more feminine look.

SkaterDress made with partly upcycled materials

I hope you’ll enjoy the SkaterDress sewing pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Glitter Dress

Once upon a time last Monday, I realized I have less than nine days to pack up my things and go. Which is why I only have a simple dress to show you today, and nothing next Wednesday. I’m sorry. I’ll try my best to get a proper post done as soon as possible!
I had a few yards of glittery lycra. When I bought the fabric, it was covered in glitter. A trip to the washing machine robbed much of its sparkle, and left it with a more subtle shine. The fabric wanted to be many things, and I had to force it to make up its mind.
Eventually, it turned into a dress.
This was a birthday present from Me to Me.

The dress is tight and long sleeved, and very comfortable to wear thanks to the elastic material. It has a keyhole cut designed to reveal the obvious lack of cleavage. Still, I love it to bits and would probably wear it every day if it didn’t need to be washed every now and again.
The long hem bears a narrow ruffle. I contemplated on adding ruffles to cuffs as well, but decided it would maybe be a little too much. In a more simplistic form, the dress is easier to mix with corsets and cardigans.

Do you give yourselves birthday presents?
Until next… time?
Love,
Heather

Product: Princess and Keyhole Dress Sewing Pattern

Once upon a time, I had a bit of black cotton.
I asked it what it wanted to be, and it said it wanted to be a dress.
A dress, I sighed, aren’t there enough dresses in my world?
The cotton said no, and whispered a secret in my ear.
I cut the dress with princess seams to gain a flattering fit. With non-elastic fabrics, narrow sleeves are a no-no. I chose a wide puff-shape for the sleeves of this dress for comfort. The collar is round but closed: I didn’t want this dress to be overly dramatic.
But a little bit of drama is only a good thing.
The dress has channels concealed within the princess seams. The hem can be hitched high with ribbons that go through the channels. A wide ruffle at the hem adds to the shape of this dress.
The hem can be gathered in many ways. My favourite style is hitching up the front hem to reveal a petticoat beneath.
The hem can be raised in the back as well.
The name Princess and Keyhole Dress comes from the princess seams, and a keyhole neck.
The keyhole is entirely optional, but I like the little detail it adds.
This dress is one of my absolute favourites. I love the shape of the sleeves, the versatility of the hem, and the feel of soft cotton. The sewing pattern is available in my store and Craftsy. I hope you’ll love it as much as I do!
Until next Wednesday.
Love,
Heather