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Blog posts on sewing by Heather Wielding Designs

SkaterDress

On Tuesday, I showed you a cute little dress I made in less than two hours. I based it loosely on our Skater Dress Sewing Pattern, and today, I’d like to write more about the pattern.

The skater dress and its variations are among the most popular dress styles. With a fitted bodice and a flared hem, what’s not to love! The basic skater dress pattern can be modded beyond belief. With our Skater Dress Sewing Pattern, I did just that. Along with the basic style, our skater dress sewing pattern includes a hooded, Gothic-inspired style, and a variation based on a store-bought blouse. I for one like to sew a pattern over and over again if the style pleases me. Adding details and little mods can change up a basic pattern quite a bit. This pattern is designed with the re-sewing option in mind.

The example of our basic style is made with long sleeves, and a smooth hem and bodice. I used viscose jersey for this style, and I really like that choice. A soft fabric makes the dress comfy for everyday wear.

The basic style is super-easy to accessorize. It goes with pretty much anything! Try adding a belt to the mix, wear the dress over a top, or pop a cardigan over it. You can change it up when sewing, too: make the hem longer or shorter, mix jersey with elastic lace, or pick a patterned material. The basic style really loves its variations, so don’t hesitate to go wild with it!

The basic skater dress bends to all sorts of ways. When making this pattern, I wanted to see just how much can be done with it. For the Gothic version of the pattern, I added bell sleeves, a laced up bodice, and a large hood. All of these elements together make the dress a Gothic girls dream. This style can also be taken apart for a more subdued look. Try sewing a basic dress with a hood, or adding the lacing to the basic style. Change the fabric from velvet to jersey, and the dress changes altogether!

This style is a bit more challenging to accessorize due to the amount of detail. The dress likes jewelry and petticoats, and of course cute leg-wear paired with wicked boots.

The last style is my personal favorite. It’s made taking advantage of upcycled materials. For it, you’ll need a fitted blouse, and a hem’s worth of fabric. The model dress has a three-layer hem: tulle, and two kinds of fabric. The top layer is cut into an asymmetric shape to give the voluminous hem a bit more drama.

This style can be paired with corsets and ties which give the dress an androgynous vibe.

The pattern includes a hem, two options for bodice, sleeves that can be made long or short or topped with a circular cuff, and a hood. All of these parts fit together, so you can just take your pick of the elements you’d like to use, and make your dream come true. I’m currently dreaming of a full-length skater dress…

I hope you’ll enjoy The Skater Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

DeathRock Bustier Sewing Pattern

Corset patterns are abundant in the internet. A bit of googling will reveal an endless source of corset sewing patterns from Victorian to modern. Despite the fact that corset patterns are pretty much everywhere, I couldn’t find one that would suite me. I wanted a light overbust with little detail, a modesty panel, and a shape that would allow it to close almost entirely. Even after turning the internet upside-down I came up empty.

So I had to make the pattern myself.

The DeathRock Bustier is one of my favorite corset sewing patterns in our growing collection. It’s easy to make, comfy to wear, and it can be paired with almost anything. I like to wear mine with long skirts, but the DeathRock Bustier works wonders with short hems as well.

I’m currently in the process of making a new one with steel boning and a front zipper.

As I was cutting the corset, I couldn’t decide between two pretty fabrics. To give both of them a chance to shine, I chose to make the corset reversible. I used the exact same techniques as with the Reversible Waist Corset. With both sides pretty and tidy, the garment can actually be flipped inside out even in the middle of a night out.

Adding front closure to a light corset is really quite easy. Cut the front in two pieces instead of on fold leaving a bit of allowance, pop in a zipper, and sew bone channels on both sides. The solution makes any bustier easier to put on, and adds an extra detail.

My old DeathRock Bustier is pretty well worn. It’s boned with acrylic, and bears the marks of a lot of wear. It’s not beyond the point of salvation, and I’m thinking about changing it’s bones to spiral steel. The operation shouldn’t be too difficult, it just involves a lot of unpicking…

I hope you’ll enjoy the DeathRock Bustier Sewing Pattern, and have fun with modding it to your own taste!

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Heather lying on forestfloor

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Our Favorite Hooded Patterns

Hooded sewing patterns come in many shapes and styles. My favorites are big ones, the kind you can really hide under. Three of our patterns include the large hood- feature.

One of our first sewing patterns was The Hooded Shrug. It’s made with thick jersey, and trimmed with lace. It has a flattering shape that’s easy to mix and match, and long sleeves with a trumpet shape. The shrug is closed with one button at the neck, and the large hood brings a touch of fairytale to the design. The Hooded Shrug is one of my all-time favorite designs, and I’m thinking of making a new one for the summer.

lace trimmed shrug with large hood, image one

Jersey is my absolute favorite material to both work with and wear. It’s easy to handle once you master it, comfy to wear, and very forgiving when worked with. I used super-light, almost see-through viscose jersey for our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern. The dress has a wide hem and reverse puff sleeves along with a large hood. The dress is made with two layers of light jersey, which makes it warm during the winter.

You can mod the pattern by sewing the dress with one layer only, and even make the dress hoodless. Personally, though, I think that the hood kinda makes the dress.

The latest of our hooded designs is an asymmetrical wrap top. It’s made with light jersey, and has a layer of mesh under the wrap-cut front pieces. The top has a large hood made with two layers of fabric. This gives the hood a tidy inside so you can easily wear it down.

I adore this design, and I’m happy that it’s gotten a lot of positive feedback!

 

If you haven’t yet joined our mailing list, now’s a good time to do so. You’ll receive a 20% discount code as a welcome present, plus exclusive offers on select products. This weekend, these three hooded designs are on sale for all our VIPs!

I hope you’ll enjoy our Hooded Designs.

Until next time!

Love,

Heather

Hitched Hems

Dresses are my favorite things to wear. They’re easy to mix and match, and never out of place. Styles to choose from are endless, and materials used vary from cotton to velvet to leather. Personally, I like dresses that are both versatile and classic. One of my favorite designs in our collection is The Princess and Keyhole Dress. It features puff-sleeves, a keyhole neck, and hitched hems.

princess-seamed dress, one

The Princess and Keyhole Dress is best made with non-elastic materials such as cotton. The dress has princess seams, so it’s shaped at the bodice, and a wide hem. Puff-sleeves make it comfy to wear, but the key element is the hem.

The dress is made with channels on the hem’s seams. With ribbons slid into the channels, the hem can be modified in both length and shape. The dress can be worn long, pulled up at the front, or gathered into a short version. I like to use the ribbons to shorten the hem at the front to show off a colorful peticoat.

The shape of the dress finds its origin in the Victorian era, when hems were wide, ruffled, and often gathered. I’ve used the element of hitched hems in an earlier design as well.

princess-seamed dress, four

The Victorian Skirt is made with two layers. The botton layer features a wide ruffle, and the upper layer can be hitched up with ribbons. The Victorian Skirt is made with a very simple pattern, so it’s available as a drafting tutorial only. This allows everyone to create a skirt with their own, unique measurements.
Hitched hems are an easy way to create a versatile dress. The Victorian Skirt can be worn with both layers smooth and long, pulled up evenly, gathered at the front, or even arranged into a bustle-like shape. I like to wear mine gathered evenly, and I’ve even made a version with ribbon channels on both layers of the skirt.

black satin skirt, Victorian style

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our Hitched Hems -sewing patterns.

Until next time.

Love,

Heather

Hooded Dress

Super light jerseys can be too thin to be worn on their own. I solved the problem by creating a two-layer dress. Styled with a large hood, our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern is designed to make everyday wonderful.

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern comes with a large hood

Our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern has a wide hem, a fitted bodice, and reverse puff sleeves. Made with two layers of fabric, it can be made monochrome, or with contrasting colors. Using a single tone makes the dress modest and easy to pair with different kinds of accessories. Choosing two colors turns it up a notch, bringing a bit of flare to the simple design.

This style works best when made with light cotton or viscose jerseys, but poly-blends can work as well. Try using a thicker fabric for the shell, and topping it with a see-through chiffon or even lace. Keep in mind, though, that this dress needs to be sewn with elastic fabrics in order to make it as comfy as possible!

Our Hooded Dress has a wide hem, and made with light fabrics, it can have a tendency of flying. It’s a smart idea to pair the dress with a tight petticoat to avoid showing too much. Our Garter Petticoat works wonders with this style, and helps keep overknee-socks up during the winter.

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern allows you to create a two-layer dress

For this dress, I wanted to take advantage of my favorite sleeve shape. The reverse puff sleeve enjoyed popularity in the sixties, and pops up every now and again. In my opinion, it’s one of the most flattering sleeves. It’s easy to pair with 3/4 cardigans, and works wonderfully with shawls of all shapes. In a feminine dress, it emphasizes the female form.

Our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern was originally designed to be hooded, but to give it more versatility, we’ve added an alternate neckline to the style so the dress can be made hoodless as well. Don’t forget, with two layers of fabric, you can play with the shape of the hem as much as you like!

I hope you’ll enjoy our Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern.

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Hooded Dress Sewing Pattern also has a hoodless option

Reversible Waist Corset

Once upon a time, I had two cool fabrics that both wanted to be a corset. One was a black cotton-blend with a soft satin finish, and the other a skull-print cotton scarf. After a while of pondering, I decided to take full advantage of both fabrics. The process turned into our Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern, which was published on Craftsy last week.

Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern - skulls on the outside

This reverible corset features a front zipper, and a laced-up back. The zipper makes it easy to put on, which mean you can flip it in the middle of a night out if you so choose. The lacing gives the garment a bit of wiggle-room, making it easy to modify the size a bit. Made with light-weight fabrics, this corset is designed for decorational purposes only. Using thicker materials and flat steel boning makes it possible, though, to wear this style as a tighter laced corset.

Lacing

As this style is reversible, it comes without a modesty panel. Sewing one into a garment meant to be worn inside-out on occation is virtually impossible. This means our reversible corset is best worn with dresses. This way, the garment seen through the lacing is seamless and smooth. When pairing this style with skirts and tops, be sure to make certain the back looks pretty!

SkullCorset

This reversible waist corset sewing pattern comes with a zipper at the front. Attaching it in a tidy way is surprisingly easy. This style does have a bit of hand-stitching involved, though. The binding is best sewn by hand so that both sides of the garment remain pleasing to the eye.

The bone channels are sewn into the seams. They’re visible on one side only, and nearly hidden on the other side. This technique guarantees a tidy finish with quick, easy steps which are fully explained in our illustrated sewing tutorial that you will receive with the pattern.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wedneday.

Love,

Heather

Reversible Waist Corset Sewing Pattern - black satin on the inside

Yoked Blouse

Blouses come in all shapes and styles. Be it slim-fit or loose, feminine or ultra-strict, a blouse is a smart choice for any occasion. Our Yoked Blouse Sewing Pattern is a version of a classic. With a lace-trimmed yoke and translucent details, this style works best for a romantic look.

yoked blouse sewing pattern features chiffon inserts

The model blouse is made with stripe-patterned cotton, and a slightly elastic chiffon. With the combination of elastic and non-elastic materials, this style is comfortable to wear. The upper part of the sleeve is made with elastic fabric, which makes certain that the garment won’t feel constricting when worn. The elastic chiffon allows movement though the shape of the upper sleeve is quite narrow.

The seams on the sleeves are hidden with satin ribbon, and the cuff is trimmed with the same material. This gives the blouse a polished, fully finished look. The satin embellishment also adds a little shine, bringing a very subtle touch of bling to the style. You can also use lace to hide the seams and to trim the cuffs with.

 yoked-blouse-sleeve-detail

This style has a relatively long hem. It is a little shorter in the front, and curves down in the back. The fit is loose, so that the blouse is comfortable to wear. You can shape the waist by simply adding darts to the back. The style is designed for petite beauties, and comes only in sizes 32-38.

With a chiffon insert at the yoke, the blouse bears a Victorian vibe. The model blouse is made with ordinary buttons, but by choosing a more extravagant design, you can easily add drama to this style. Try wearing a brooch at the collar of this blouse, or add a waist corset to the mix. This classic style also works well with jeans or even mini skirts.

yoked-blouse-collar-detail

I hope you’ll enjoy our Yoked Blouse Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

yoked blouse sewing pattern

Sleeveless Wrap Dress

Wrap dresses are comfortable, versatile, and fun to mix and match. Our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern is designed with a loose fit and knee-length hem.

sleeveless wrap dress sewing pattern, two

Wrap dresses can be made with many kinds of materials. Our version is designed for elastic materials. Thicker jerseys work wonderfully for this style. The model dress is made with cotton jersey, but viscose jerseys or even poly-blends work with our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern. The dress is made with a low-cut, lace-trimmed neckline and long belts. Try using contrast colours for the trim and belts for a funky look, or choose a printed fabric to bring a splash of colour to any workday. This style is a comfy choice for casual office environment, but it can work for family get-togethers or dates as well.

Made with nicer fabric, such as velvet or elastic satin, our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern can go from casual to fancy. Try using two layers of fabric: pick an elastic satin, and top it with elastic lace. Match the belts and the lace-trim to the satin, or bind the neckline with bias tape. This way, you can make the dress look super-stunning for non-formal parties.

This sleeveless style is perfect for summer days. During the warm days of summer, this dress is cool and breezy. Thanks to the versatility of the style, it can work during the winter as well. Pop a long sleeved top and a jersey skirt under it, and you have an extra layer of warmth. You can even wear this style over another dress like a long, sleeveless blazer. If you’re feeling adventurous, try adding cap sleeves or even full sleeves to the dress. Though sleeve options aren’t included in the pattern, feel free to use your skills! And if you already purchased our Pretty Basic Jersey Top Pattern, you have a sleeve that fits the dress.

We hope you’ll enjoy our Sleeveless Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

sleeveless wrapdress, four

Lace-Trimmed Wrap-Cut Dress

Jersey dresses, both in long and short styles, are comfortable, easy to pair, and fit for many occasions. Ultra-comfy jersey dresses are perfect for shopping, day-time dates, and even the office. Our Lace-Trimmed Wrap Cut Dress Sewing Pattern is designed to be smoking hot. With a low-cut neckline and flattering, fitted empire waist, it is sexy in a relaxed way.

lace-trimmed wrap-cut dress sewing pattern, image one

This style is best made with light jerseys. Cotton and viscose jersey work wonderfully for this dress, but lycra and poly-blends also nice choices. The model dress is made all in black for a classic dark look. Don’t hesitate to pick any colour, though! This wrap-cut dress will look stunning in shades of red, and absolutely cute in pastel tones. Patterned fabrics will flatter this style as well. With a simple cut, the design won’t obscure printed materials.

The Wrap-Cut Dress Sewing Pattern is available in sizes 32-38. This doesn’t mean larger ladies shouldn’t go for the same style. Included in the pattern, you’ll find a drafting tutorial on how to use a basic top pattern to create the pattern for this dress in your exact size. Be sure to use a top pattern that fits like a glove for a perfect fit!

This style features a revealing neckline, a fitted empire waist, and long, loose sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are bound with elastic lace to add to the delicacy of the design. Accessorizing this style is easy and fun. Add necklaces for a sensual look and a waist corset to emphasize the feminine shape. Try adding a light, fitted top beneath the dress for coverage, and a long underskirt for extra warmth. You can also wear a cardigan, be it loose or short and snug, over the dress on cold days. Whicever way you choose, this dress is up for it. Simple and sweet, it will be a wardrobe go-to.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Lace Trimmed Wrap-Cut Dress Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

wrap-cut jdress sewing pattern, image two

Garter Petticoat

I like to wear shorts skirts during the winter. Long hems drag along in the cold snow, the snow melts, and soaks my shoes. With short skirts and dresses, my feet stay dry. But the issue of cold legs remains. Adding long socks or leg warmers to the mix is an uncomfortable fix: they both have a tendency of sliding down. That’s why I came up with the idea to add garters to an underskirt. The solution worked like a charm, and I turned it into a Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern.

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 1

In order to make the garter petticoat as comfortable as possible, I made it with sturdy cotton jersey. It’s warm, it’s durable, and the fabric is easy to work with. You can find some in any fabric store in loads of colours, and the cost usually stays quite low. You can naturally make this with any elastic material, but I recommend using a heavier jersey. The garters need something to hold on to, and thick cotton grants them just that.

The hem of the petticoat has an angular shape. If you prefer, go ahead and cut it straight along the lowest point of the angles. Personally, I feel that the angular shape brings to mind vintage lingerie. Along with garters and cute socks, the vintage-vibe is even stronger. The garter petticoat is my absolute favourite. I’ve made two, and I wear them all them time! Paired with tights, over-knees, and a flowing skirt or two, I no longer freeze to death when venturing outside.

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 2

The model piece for the Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern is hemmed with contrast-coloured underwear elastic. You can use any kind of elastic lace to hem the petticoat with. I recommend a narrow lace, but a longer version can work, too. The contrast-colour works as an eye-catcher, so if you’d like a not-so-obvious version, match the lace to the colour of your fabric.

I hope you’ll enjoy our Garter Skirt Sewing Pattern!

Until next Wednesday.

Love,

Heather

Garter Petticoat Sewing Pattern 3